Wild boar hunting is undoubtedly one of the most widespread hunting modalities in our country and seems to be tailored to perform with the bow, a perfect communion that creates a powerful addiction.
It is not an easy discipline, and it has its limitations if we compare it when hunting with a firearm, but it is very effective and satisfactory if we dedicate the time it requires.
This article is not intended to introduce the amateur in this exciting modality and is based on personal experiences and experiences. For this, we will see the different aspects and steps necessary to conclude our adventure after the elusive Boar successfully.
Let’s start by referring to the material that is essential to perform this type of hunting while waiting.
To start hunting with a bow, we will obviously need a bow, arrows and a series of ” basic ” accessories. One of the main problems with a person who wants to start in this world is the lack of knowledge of the material.
Many times the technicalities related to archery do nothing but confuse the future goalkeeper. To do this, we will summarize the elements that are essential for the waits without getting too far into the most theoretical and technical part
The Bow and Accessories
I recommend if you do not have much experience as an archer using a pulley arc or compound instead of a traditional arc, mainly because the performance and precision of these arches are greater than traditional arcs at the same training time.
The hunting with a traditional bow, although it sounds contradictory, is the evolution of the hunter that seeks to surpass oneself, and enter fully into the hunting with more “pure” bow.
A short arc for the waiting is ideal, between 28 “and 32” axis to axis is perfect, and if you have a fismelle (brace height) between 7 “and 8” inches better, to pull when we are well wrapped, and we increase the clothes a lot.
The fismelle is the distance between the rope and the inside of the bow grip. To hunt with a bow, you need a minimum of 45 pounds of power per law.
The ideal thing is to shoot with a power which allows us to open the arch with comfort, the more, the better, that is clear, but we are not going to be obsessed with this matter, 60 pounds are more than enough.
The arch needs a viewer with light to illuminate the pins since the waits are basically at night. The pins are the references or points of view that have the viewfinders and are usually manufactured with a fiber optic terminal.
The ideal for me is those of a single pin since it is usually thrown to feedlots, bathes or steps of a fixed distance. The viewfinders with several pins are very practical, but if you are going to use the arc only for waiting.
I see more appropriate the use of a single pin, since it avoids confusion, although this is a matter of taste as I commented previously. These viewers have a scale which can be graduated to shoot at different distances.
In the case of using a viewer with several pins, what we will do is modify the lighting so that only the first pin illuminates.
The resting arrows must be of the full capture type, either fall or fixed, that is to say, that they maintain the arrow in the resting arrows regardless of the position of the bow.
This will prevent the arrow from falling from the arrows and hit the body of the bow, making a loud “click” which betrayed our presence, and I can assure you that this will almost always happen as long as you have the boar almost put in the post.
A stabilizer always helps, but in this mode, you do not need a very long and bulky, from 3 “to 9” inches will be more than enough. It can also be used as a support to place the flashlight with which we light the pig at the time of the shooting.
The lantern is another important issue. In the market, there are many flashlights suitable for this purpose. Currently, there are small lanterns which have a considerable luminous flux which indicates the amount of visible light emitted by the lantern.
This flow is measured in lumens. The more lumens the lantern has, the more light it will emit. A flashlight with 1000 lumens will be sufficient, with a concentrated light flow to achieve greater range.
Avoid using white light as much as possible, since animals are less resistant to this type of light. A red or green light filter will be ideal.
The ignition of the lantern is activated by a remote button attached to the lantern by means of a cable. This button must be placed on the body of the bow to be able to operate it with the hand that holds the bow.
There are Jabalís that tolerate the light very well, and others, in turn, put feet in dusty once you turn on the focus. These specimens may have had bad experiences in the past, and it will not be the first time they have passed them.
A good way to see how the animal reacts to light is to make a burst once we hear movement in the feedlot, and see what is hanging around. If the animal is collapsible, we open the bow and light again just enough to pull.
It is very important to practice shooting at night by turning on the flashlight. The trigger is another of the fundamental elements.
A trigger is a device which is attached to the hand or wrist, and that will allow us to make a clean and safe release of the rope once the arch is open.
Basically and so that we all understand it is a kind of clamp with which we will open the bow, and once prepared we will release the bowstring with a trigger, which will allow us to make said a release in a cleaner and more precise way than if we did with the fingers.
The most common way to “hook” the trigger to the rope is through a small loop that is put on the bowstring, called Loop. It is a special material and is not worth any type of rope.
Install it is very simple, and it seems to lie the strength of its knot. There is a variation of the original, called the Torqueless D-Loop, but we’ll talk about that in another post.
There are many models of triggers, wrist, hand, tension, even special ones to perform waits, which will always be the most recommended, but a simple wrist trigger will be more than enough to start.
Another issue of which many lines could be written because of the variety and complexity of the subject is about the arrows and the hunting tips to use, so I am not going to get too much at the moment because this article aims to be an introduction to the waitings with the arc.
It is recommended the use of carbon tubes and fixed tips, not mechanical for the awaited ones. With a powerful, fast and well-adjusted bow, we can use almost any tip of the existing ones in the market with success.
The only necessary condition is that they are robust and perfectly sharp. We must always practice and adjust our bow to the hunting tips we are going to use. Not all hunting tips fly the same and can deviate.
The best thing is to be advised in a specialized establishment. The choice of arrows is fundamental and should correspond to the characteristics of the bow. In other words, NOT all the arrows are valid for all the arcs.
The choice of the arrow depends on the power, arc opening and tip weight fundamentally. Their hardness or spine classify the arrows.
Clothing and Accessories
Waiting or waiting, as the name suggests, is to wait for an animal to pass through a certain area.
To be able to enjoy making such a wait and to endure as long as possible, we must be comfortable, not only posturally speaking, but also thermally.
Being cold or hot may cause our wait to end sooner than desired. The heat can be solved by removing layers, but the cold is more complicated.
Today there are technical clothing focuses on hunting, based on a very effective three-layer system. Even there are already many brands that are taking out lines of clothing specifically for archery.
Our goal will be to keep the body dry and warm. To keep it dry, perspiration must be allowed and enhanced, that is, the clothes must allow the sweat to leave our skin.
And moreover, it seeks to protect the body from inclement weather (rain, cold, wind, etc.), so our clothes should not allow the entry of these elements.
The layering system allows the body to remain dry and protected while we develop our activity, without the need to go lined like an onion. Next, we explain the function of each of these layers:
- Layer: Keeps us dry by using breathable fabrics
- Layer: Keeps us warm.
- Layer: It protects us from the rain, air that allows perspiration. This is achieved thanks to patents of membranes as well known as Gore-tex or Vapourflex among others
The head, hands, and feet are critical points, keeping them warm is essential, because once they are cold, it will be very difficult to be comfortable.
There are specific products on the market to perform waits with a high degree of insulation such as boots, hand warmers, balaclava.
It is advisable to put the last layers near the position because if we walk or move a lot with all the clothes, we will sweat.
Many garments have odor control, which reduces our body odor enough, but they do not eliminate it completely. They are a great help but not 100% infallible.
It is advisable to keep the hunting clothes in a tight bag along with some vegetation in the area so that it takes odor. High positions and knowing the trends of the airs in the hunting area will be your best ally.
The issue of camouflage is controversial and personal. Everyone has their preferences based on the experiences lived or simply for aesthetics.
For waits, dark colors and different camouflage patterns will make the paper. The boar does not have very good sight, but it does have a good visual memory, and it will perceive any change in its environment, and more if it is close to a feedlot.
The most important thing to my understanding is that you can not distinguish your silhouette, always putting us in places where we have coverage behind so that we do not stand out. Any movement within the visual field of the boar will ruin our wait.
Before going out to hunt, we must morally be prepared to kill our prey as fast and clean as possible. This is achieved by using an appropriate equipment and giving on the site, that is, in the vital area.
The vital zone for the archer must be the area of the knuckle of the animal, looking for the right lung and heart.
With a good crush, the boar should not go more than 50 meters, but this is not an exact science. The boar is a very hard animal and can travel incredible distances even carrying a lethal shot and bleeding in abundance.
Although before I have not named, but a blood dog is very useful, and will be essential in more than one pistol since sometimes the blood trail is not very obvious.
The only way to be precise with the bow is to practice a lot. Many people think that since the pulley arcs have a point of view, it is very easy to target once the equipment is adjusted, and that is a serious error.
It is not the same to calmly throw a bullseye by day, to throw at night, with cold and with the heart about to get out of the chest because of the emotion of the cast. We must mechanize the movement so that at the moment of truth we conclude the hunt successfully.
There is also no other practice at night and sitting, simulating a real hunting situation, performing all movements in slow motion, which is how they should be done once we are hunting.
Preparation of Posts
The preparation of the posts is undoubtedly one of the most important parts of this hunt and for me one of the most entertaining. Search steps, baths areas is a good starting point.
The most common is the use of feedlots. First of all, there is to be well informed about the hunting legislation in force for this practical type. Remember that ignorance of the law does not exempt compliance.
It is also totally forbidden to use artificial attractants. To give an example it is forbidden to hunt within 50 meters of the feedlots; however, there is no minimum distance to put in bathes, trails or sowing, absurd or not, is what there is.
Having said that let’s talk about the feedlots. To feed the boars, they can put almost everything. Remember that they are omnivorous and very gluttonous. The most common is to prime them with corn, almonds, acorns.
Once the animals find the feedlot it is important to take care of it, and to prime it periodically. If you can not go almost every day, a good solution is to place an automatic feedlot or the typical leaky drum filled with corn.
The first topic to remain in mind is where boar can enter the feedlot, where I will enter the post and as I said earlier the trend of air in the area.
Determine where “boars” presumably enter is initially simple. I say presumably because more than once they will surprise us by entering where we do not expect them. You have to observe the trails, the natural steps.
A good trick to know where they enter is to place branches or cross-weeds in those steps, and once they start to enter the feedlot, determine the most querencias steps and depending on the branches to see if they are input or output.
Another way to determine where the boars enter the feedlots is by reading the stones once they have entered the feedlot, I explain.
One of the most general ways to prepare feedlots is to place food (corn, almonds) and cover it with stones. Once the animals enter they usually form a circumference with these stones while they move them away looking for the food underneath.
Well, normally there is always one side of that circumference that is without stones, a circle without closing, almost like a large U. This tells us that animals enter through the open area. This is not always obvious.
Large males tend to be very suspicious of feedlots, and it is difficult to throw them away. Another option is to put in the steps or baths they use. A great help to control these specimens is the use of the photo trap camera.
The preparation of a position to hunt with bow differs fundamentally in two things with respect to the positions of firearm:
- The shooting distance
- The space we need to open the arch.
The ideal distance to shoot with the night arch should not exceed 20 meters. A well-calibrated bow with a trained archer is a very precise weapon, being effective many meters away, but at night things change.
It is important to control the distances of our environment, not only the distance to the dump but also the distances within our field of vision.
Once I put myself in a new position, I usually make several measurements with a telemeter to different fixed elements of my environment such as trees, shrubs, stones in order to quickly determine the distance of shooting in case I am surprised some animal within my field of vision.
Ideally, whenever possible, throw from a high position. For this, there are the treestands. A tree stand is nothing more than a chair adapted to be placed on a tree.
They usually have a platform and a seat. The trunk of the tree will support us. Its installation is relatively simple, and the sensations / spectacular views.
The in this type of positions is essential, and the use of a harness more than advisable, taking into account that there are positions that are placed at a great height.
The most usual is to place a rope in the chair so that once placed on top we can raise the arch without problems. To be able to climb the treestand we can place either some threadable steps or some scales that are tied to the trunk and that do not damage the trunk at all.
There are three species which are protected, so be careful when putting the rungs and cutting branches. Another option is to go to ground level.
There are some portable positions very similar to a camping store, called blinds. These blinds are very practical especially for rainy days since we will be completely isolated and protected from the inclemency of the weather.
The interior is usually quite spacious to handle the arch with comfort, and have several pockets to pull. You can also make your own blind with branches, or simply get stuck to the plant cover. The important thing is that you do not distinguish your silhouette.
To sit on the floor, a good chair will be appreciated. It must be comfortable, with backrest and without armrests, at least on the side where we are going to throw, as it will bother us. Another important feature is that it is not noisy and if it has a rotating base better than better.
Now we have everything ready. Our arch is adjusted to the millimeter, and we could hit an apple 30 meters away without any problem, we have the right clothes, a beautiful stand, and many boars that visit it practically every day.
The afternoon falls, and you are on your way to the post. You park the car a bit far since you do not like to leave it very close and the walk through the countryside before hunting relaxes you.
You open the trunk and take the junk, doing a mental review to not forget anything. Ok, I have everything ready. You arrive at the treestand, and you hook the harness to the tree, you do not want to take unnecessary risks.
You raise the bow and the backpack. You put the backpack on one branch, the quiver on another, and you put an arrow on the bow. You adjust the trigger in your hand, and you breathe deeply.
You are already hunting. At that same moment, a chill runs through your body; you are excited as the first day, the day you stop feeling this the hunt will lose all its meaning, now it only depends on you and the goddess fortune that you culminate the night with success.
- We must always adjust our bow to the hunting tips we are going to use. Not all hunting tips fly the same.
- Check the bow bolts periodically. The bow carries small screws on the pulleys, rope brakes and other accessories. Due to the vibrations that are generated with each shot, the screws can be loosened and depend on which one could bring us many problems. A good recommendation is to apply to all those that are not used to make frequent adjustments, such as those that control the openings in the pulleys.
- Before going to the post to mentally review what you would do when you are hunting, this will prevent us from forgetting things. It will not be the first time you arrive at the post, and you realize that you lack the trigger for example.
- If we wrap ourselves before arriving at the hunt, walk slowly to avoid sweating. Said sweat when we stop will cool.
- Take a couple of arrows before hunting to check that everything is in place. Also, check the light of the flashlight and the viewfinder. Always carry spare batteries, auxiliary flashlight, and mobile phone.
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